The Culture of Beauty
Well protected
The historic shopping arcades of Paris are a wonderful place to discover the city off the beaten track. Mademoiselle Lili presents her three favorites.
It began in the late 18th century when covered shopping arcades became fashionable. The galleries covered with glass domes allowed strollers to escape from the city's impositions of dirt from the streets, rain, cold, smells and noise. And they still do today. Many of these galleries fell victim to the Haussmannian urban renewal of the 19th century and then to the trend towards large department stores, but about a dozen have survived. To this day, time seems to have stood still in them. They are an Eldorado for discoveries away from the mainstream, where small retailers, artisans or restaurateurs, some of whom have been in the umpteenth generation, offer the most unusual and bizarre things.
The Passage Jouffroy
On the Grands Boulevards, right next to the Musée Grévin. The passage was the city's first to be heated. In wintry, rainy Paris, steam-heated air streamed out of the floor grilles, which can still be seen today. In one of the antiquarian bookshops you can find old postcards on which you can see the beautiful ladies of the era à la Marilyn Monroe letting the hot air blow under their skirts to warm themselves up. Here you will also find the Hotel Chopin, a very Parisian and inexpensive hotel that has literally opened its doors since 1846. For almost 180 years, the reception has never been vacant. In the Parasolerie Heurtault there are elegant, handmade umbrellas and also historical examples that hide a dagger in the stick. This is how the ladies of the time defended themselves against the wild dogs in the city. Might be useful again today, albeit for a different reason.
Passage du Grand Cerf
On the Metro Etienne Marcel, connects Rue Dussoubs with Rue Saint Denis. Young jewelery designers, antique dealers and florists line up here. The owner of the shop Pour vos beaux yeux, an optician and passionate collector, specializes in unworn vintage glasses that he sells in his shops in Nice and Paris in the Passage du Grand Cerf (with prescription lenses if necessary). After rummaging around, stop off at Kalany Mya and let yourself be lulled by the relaxing birdsong. The menu features tea, coffee, juices, patisserie, vegetarian and organic delights.
Galerie Véro-Dodat
Just a few steps from the Louvre, it connects rue du Bouloi with rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. One entrance is marked by the Café de l'Epoque, where excellent French cuisine is served in an authentic ambience. At the other end is the flagship store of Parisian shoe king Christian Louboutin. And in between? A colorful mix of elegant and original shops selling art, furniture, musical instruments or antique jewellery. You can also watch the glove maker Thomasine at work here. I already reported about them in my last column. The make-up artist legend Terry de Gunzburg, who worked for Saint Laurent to Helmut Newton, runs her By Terry lifestyle boutique in the gallery, where she also offers very playful French tableware.